Preserve Queen Anne's Lace Flowers for Fresh Bouquets

The delicate, frilly, clustered flower head of Queen Anne's lace, also known as wild carrot, is an attractive filler flower for bouquets and floral arrangements. Growing wild throughout the United States, Queen Anne's lace is a biennial, blooming the second year of growth, starting in the early summer. The broad, flat cluster of tiny, white or light-yellow flowers, with the identifiable single, dark-purple center flower, appear on long stems that are easy to harvest for cut flower creations. Fresh cut Queen Anne's lace has a vase life of three to seven days. Proper preparation and care will keep the flower fresh longer.

Harvest Queen Anne's lace flowering stems in the morning, after the dew is gone. Cut the stems longer than you will need, using a sharp knife or sharp hand shears. Place the cut stems in a container of water as you harvest them. The tiny blossoms of the Queen Anne's lace flower head should have some of the flowers already opened with the remaining unopened buds showing color. The blossoms will not open while in a bouquet if Queen Anne's lace is harvested too soon, before the flower buds are mature.

Remove any leaves and foliage from the stems that might become submerged in the vase water of your floral arrangement, using a sharp knife or shears.

Use a sharp knife to re-cut the ends of the Queen Anne's lace stems to the preferred length for your bouquet, while holding the stem under water. Cutting the stems under water prevents an air bubble from developing at the stem cut, which would block water uptake and cause the flower to wilt sooner.

Place the re-cut Queen Anne's lace stem in a vase filled with mixed floral preservative and warm water, following the directions on the floral preservative package. Or, mix 20 drops of household bleach with 1 qt. of warm water to use in your flower arrangement vase. Warm water is more easily absorbed up the stem of flowers, keeping the flower and stem fully hydrated. Queen Anne's lace flower clusters often suffer from water stress, meaning the stem and flower head do not receive adequate water supply and will wilt. Using warm water with floral preservative will extend the vase life of the Queen Anne's lace cut flowers.

Change the floral preservative water mixture in the vase every two to three days and re-cut 1/2- to 1 inch off the Queen Anne's lace stems, again, under water. Re-opening up the stem end and refreshing the water will keep the stem and flower head hydrated, extending the vase life.

Harvest & Consume Passion Flower

The stems, flowers and leaves of the passion flower are used widely in Europe as an herbal treatment for asthma, insomnia, high blood pressure and pain relief. Passion flower is consumed by drying and crushing the petals to make a tea you can drink. Passion flower tea is easy to make at home, and provides a plethora of medicinal uses.

Harvesting Passion Flower
Cut stems, leaves and flowers from passion flower plants with scissors when they are mature and blooming. Tie these cuttings into small bundles using string.

Hang in a sunny window and leave to dry for two weeks, or until the cuttings are dry and brittle to the touch.

Untie the bundles and crush the leaves, stems and dried flowers with your fingers. Place them in a glass jar with a tight lid.

Consuming Passion Flower
Measure a teaspoon of crushed passion flower into a tea ball.

Place the tea ball in a mug of boiling water and allow to steep for ten minutes.

Drink the tea a half hour before bedtime for a calming, sedative-like effect. Drink passion flower tea in combination with Valerian or lemon balm to increase its calming effects. Valerian and lemon balm can be easily found in capsule form at your local drugstore.

Plant Flower Seeds

Flower seeds can be planted in late winter inside the house, so your flowers get a head start on summer growth, or you can put your seeds directly in the ground once the weather warms up. Either way, you want to make sure your seeds have the best growing conditions so your young plants are healthy and vigorous. To give seedlings the best start possible, they need quality soil, plenty of water and a warm, nurturing environment.

Determine the best time to plant your seeds. Most flowers can be planted outside any time after the last frost, but some should be planted later in the season. Most seed packets have directions for when to plant, or you can check the planting schedule in the resource section. If you want to start your flowers early, you can plant them indoors six to eight weeks before outdoor planting.

If you're planting your seeds outside skip to step three. If you choose to start your plants inside, fill the pots about three-quarters full with potting soil. You can use small starter pots or seedling trays and eventually transfer the seedlings from the container to the ground, or you can use peat pots, which go directly into the ground and dissolve in the soil.

Plant two or three seeds per pot. Press the seeds about half an inch below the surface, and cover them with soil. If you are planting large flowers, remove extra seedlings so there is only one flower growing in each pot, but planting extras will ensure that at least one seedling germinates. If you are planting directly in the ground, follow the same procedure, but space seeds in rows 2to 6 inches apart, depending on the size of the flowers.

Water the soil until it is damp but not soaking. If you're planting outside you're finished, just water the ground as needed until seedlings appear. If you're using pots, make sure they have holes in the bottom for excess water to drain. Put the pots on a tray or cookie sheet to catch the drainage, and cover with plastic wrap to help retain moisture. Place covered containers in a warm spot away from direct sunlight.

As soon as the seedlings appear, remove the plastic wrap and move the pots to a sunny area or place them under a grow light. Water seedlings as needed until it's time to plant them in the garden. If you're using plastic or metal pots, hold the base of the seedling and tip the pot upside down to remove each flower from its pot. The roots should come out intact, and the whole clump should be planted slightly below ground level and covered with soil. If you're using peat pots, plant the entire pot below the ground, and cover it with soil.

Plant Flowers in a Pot

Having a few inexpensive potted plants on your patio can make a huge difference to the feel of your yard. I know I love to look out from my living room window and see the flowers in bloom. If you live in an apartment having flowers in a pot on your balcony is a great way to dress it up. Flowers in pots generally need more care than flowers planted directly into the garden, so be sure you have the time to commit to their care. If you are not sure how to go about planting flowers in a pot, follow these steps.

Go to your favorite gardening center and check out the flowers. I love our local Lowe's and Armstrong's for a good selection of flowers and all the accessories that you could need.

Choose flowers
When choosing flowers make sure you take into consideration; are they shade or full sun flowers? Where will your pot sit? Out in the sun or in a shady spot? Are they high maintenance flowers? Can you make that commitment? Nothing will survive in my garden if it needs tending like a baby every day. Do you want annuals or perennials? Annuals will last a season and die off; perennials will come back (with care) year after year. Think of the color scheme of flowers that you want, how they will go with what you have already, I love white and purple flowers and they seem to match really well with the light green color of my house, so I am always drawn to those color schemes. Be sure to buy flowers that will do well within your zone. I am in a warm climate so many flowers do well here but if you are in a cooler climate or near the sea, you should do some investigation into what will do well in your area, to avoid disappointment.

Choose potting soil
Choose a potting soil for pots that is porous and well draining. That said, it also needs to retain moisture so that it does not dry out too quickly, especially in warm weather areas. You can make your own potting soil if you wish. There are many good gardening books out there that will give you the 'recipe' to do this.

Choose a pot
Select a pot that is the correct size for the flowers you have decided on, remember that they will need room for their roots and flowers to grow and some flowers will grow much faster and bigger than others, so do your homework and ask about your flowers' growth rate when you buy. I usually err on the side of caution and buy a bigger pot than I need. This will prevent the need for continual repotting to a larger pot. Look for a pot with drainage holes underneath to allow excess water to escape and avoid soggy roots.

Plant the flowers in the pot
Tap the flower container gently to free the flowers, roots and soil from the container it came home in. Pull apart any overgrown and coiled roots that are compacted to loosen them up. Set the roots end into the pot that has been partially filled with the potting soil. The top of the root ball should be about an inch or so from the top of the pot's rim. Add more potting soil to completely cover the roots. Water the flowers thoroughly and place the pot in the desired position in your yard or on your balcony.

Care of potted flowers
If you live in a warm weather area you may need to water the flowers once or even twice a day on hot days. If you have cooler weather once or twice a week may be enough. Potted flowers need regular fertilizing for best plant growth and to ensure continually blooming flowers throughout the season. Follow the fertilizer guidelines carefully. I use those fertilizer sticks that you put into the pot once a month; fuss free and fool proof.

Dye Flowers

Having the right balance of colors in a bouquet can make the difference between an average collection of flowers and a custom burst of life that sets the tone of a room or party. Transform white long stem flowers into custom pops of color with food coloring dye. Anyone can partake in this simple science experiment and dye flowers by following basic guidelines and using the right materials from a local grocery or craft supply store.

Cut the flower stems at an angle. According to CBS.com, the angle increases the stem's exposure to the water and enables it to uptake more water. The angled cut will make the flowers last longer and decrease the amount of time it takes for the flower to change color.

Separate the flowers. For example, if you wish to transform white flowers into red and blue flowers, create a red group and a blue group.

Fill a vase halfway full of water. There should be one vase per group.

Add drops of food coloring to the water until the water becomes dark, or four drops of coloring per cup of water. This method of dyeing flowers is called absorption dyeing, according to Purdue University's Department of Horticulture. (Reference 2)

Put the flowers in the vase.

Place the vase of flowers in sunlight for one to three days and watch the flowers absorb the color.

Remove flowers from vase once desired color is achieved.

Plant Flower Seeds Outside

A flower garden adds beauty and fragrance to your yard and is an enjoyable hobby that produces visible results. When planting flowers outdoors, you can purchase plants and seedlings or start your flowers directly from seed. Planting a flower garden from seed is simple to do, using basic gardening supplies. Care for your newly planted flower seeds and, several weeks later, you'll reap the benefits of all your hard work as you enjoy colorful flowers in your yard.

Prepare your garden soil by breaking up clumps of dirt with a garden rake. A loose, fine soil helps seeds break through to the surface more easily. Wear gardening gloves to keep your hands clean and protect them from injury while working outdoors.

Poke holes for the flower seeds into the soil, using your gloved finger. Read the back of the seed packet to determine the depth at which the seeds need to be planted.

Mix very small seeds with a couple teaspoons of dry sand. Doing this makes it easier to sow tiny seeds, according to online resource Creative Homeowner.

Plant a few flower seeds in each hole. Cover the holes with dirt and pat the ground down with your hands.

Place empty, clean tuna cans around the area where you planted your flower seeds. The tuna cans will serve to measure the amount of water you're using to water your flowers.

Water your newly planted flower seeds using a sprinkler or hose. Continue to water until your tuna cans contain 1 inch of water.

Create Beautiful Flower Pot Gardens

If you don’t have room for an ornamental garden or you don’t have the time to dig and toil, think flower pots. Potted flower arrangements have a sophistication of their own and can provide as complex a sensual delight as backyard beds. Designing a beautiful container garden requires a basic understanding of color, size and texture combinations, as well as a creative approach to mixing plants and materials.

Corners for Containers

Container gardens fit in almost anywhere, from patio to poolside. Any corner of empty space can be the site for an arrangement of pots filled with flowers, including entryway stairs and that shady area beneath the big tree. Identifying the future home of a container assists immeasurably in finding the right pots since their purpose becomes apparent. Planters on either side of the driveway serve as sentinels to mark the entrance. You’ll have to think big; tiny pots will be lost in this role. On the other hand, a cluster of small pots arranged on the stairs to the deck invite guests to enter. Add additional dimension to the arrangement by varying the heights of potted plants; place some on overturned containers or using interesting and unusual plant stands.

Matchmaking Pots and Places

Picking pots is a basic element of creating flower pot gardens, and there is no consideration more important than location: where is this container going to go? You will pick pots of different sizes, styles, shapes and colors for gracing a sunny oak patio than you would for placement before the red brick entrance of a townhouse. The architectural details of your home help narrow your choices. If you live in a small log cabin, pick pots in natural materials such as stone, weathered wood or even beaten copper. Large, elegant planter pots might be more appropriate near the entrance to an elegant Victorian than a cluster of 6-inch containers.

Tip
When it comes to flower pot clusters, unite the arrangement by using containers of the same material or of the same color or size. Using six identical pots with six identical plants spaced along a walkway or beside a low wall will emphasize its length, giving a strong impression of order. Using the same pots with five disparate plants lends harmony to a more whimsical design.

Picking and Installing Plants

The plants you select must be of an appropriate scale and color for the pot, and must also coordinate with other flowers and foliage in the grouping. If you mix too many species and colors, your flower pot garden may look chaotic rather than lively. Consider picking a color scheme for the arrangement and repeating the color somewhere in each pot; including yellow flowers in each of five pots will unite the grouping even if the flowers are of different sizes and species.

Warning
Be sure that the pots you use have adequate drainage holes so that your plants won’t sit in water. If you are planting directly in the containers, place a small piece of window screen over the holes to keep dirt from exiting with the water.

Planting Containers

When you’ve picked containers and flowers, it’s time to bring the two together. Here’s how to do it.

Step 1
Cut pieces of window screen to cover the drain holes of the container if they are bigger than 1/2 inch in diameter. Alternatively, put pieces of broken pottery into the bottom of the container -- a 2-to-3-inch layer -- directly on top of the drain holes. Put enough potting soil in the container to fill it about 3/4 of the way to the top.

Step 2
Place the plants in the container, leaving them in their plastic pots, until you determine the perfect arrangement. Remember to put plants that will grow taller in the center of an arrangement if the pot is to be viewed from several sides.

Step 3
Squeeze the plastic pot of each plant until its roots and soil come out in one piece. Place each one in its assigned spot. Adjust the soil so that a plant is installed at the same level as it was in the plastic pot.

Step 4
Fill in between the plants with potting soil and gently press it into place. The soil level should come to 2 inches below the lip of the pot. Pour in water slowly until it runs out from the drain holes.

Plant a Perennial Flower Garden

A well-established perennial flower garden lasts multiple years because true perennials come back at the beginning of each growing season. The longevity of a perennial flower garden means planting and pre-planting preparation play important parts in the garden's long-term success.

Timing for Planting

If you live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 7 or lower, then plant perennials in fall one month before your area's average annual first frost date, or plant in spring after the region's average annual last frost date. You can also plant a new perennial flower garden during summer.

If you are in the mild USDA zones 8 and higher, you can plant perennials any time of the year, but the ideal times are late fall, winter and early spring, when the combination of cool air temperatures and rainfall helps new plants become established fast.

Tip
When you want to plant in summer, wait for an overcast day, regardless of the USDA zone. Alternatively, plant in the morning or evening when the air temperature is cool. Putting tender new perennials in a garden on a hot day can stress them, making it harder for the plants to adapt to their new growing conditions.

Site Selection

The best site for your garden depends on the kinds of flowering perennials you intend to plant. Many perennials need full-sun exposure, but some thrive in partial shade, partial sun or full shade. Consider partial shade and partial sun any area that gets two to six hours of direct sunlight per day. Full sun means at least six hours of direct sunlight per day, and shade or full shade is a spot that gets fewer than two hours of direct sunlight daily.

Bed Arrangement

Plan to put tall flowering perennials toward the back of a flowerbed that borders a garden or fence. If the garden is free-standing in the landscape, then plant to place the tall perennials in the center. Small perennials should be toward the garden's front to create a border area. Mid-size perennials should be between the tall plantings and the small plants in the border area, helping with the transition between their heights.

Preparation and Planting

Step 1: Prepare the Soil
Spread compost or manure 2 to 3 inches deep across the surface of the cleared garden bed. Turn over the soil to a depth of 12 inches, mixing it with the compost by using a garden fork or tiller.

Step 2: Add Fertilizer
Add a slow-release, granular, 10-10-10 fertilizer to the soil surface, and incorporate it with the soil to a depth of 12 inches. Use 1 1/2 cups of the fertilizer for every 50 square feet of soil surface. A 5-by-10-foot garden bed is 50 square feet.

Step 3: Dig Planting Holes
Dig holes 18 inches apart in the prepared garden bed. Make each hole the same depth as the nursery pot of the perennial plant you will put in the hole.

Step 4: Prepare the Plants
Tip a plant's nursery pot on its side, and gently wiggle the plant out of the pot. Rough up the outside of the plant's root ball with your hands. Identify the roots that grow around the root ball, and pull them gently outward. Set the root ball in the planting hole designated for that plant. Add soil to the hole or dig the hole a little deeper until the base of the plant's stems line up with the soil level of the ground surrounding the hole. Repeat the process for each plant.

Step 5: Fill the Holes
Push soil around each plant's root ball up to the base of the stems. Smooth the soil around the newly planted perennials.

Warning
Don't plant perennials too deep or their stems could rot under the soil. Planting too shallow, however, can cause top roots to dry out.

After-Planting Care

When you finish planting, water the garden's soil to settle the roots in the soil. Water slowly and deeply until the bed is damp 12 inches deep. Keep the soil damp for the first two weeks after planting the perennials. Add a layer of mulch 2 inches deep on the new garden. Use leaf mold, compost, shredded bark or fine wood chips as mulch. Mulch helps keep the soil moist and makes for a tidy appearance while the new plants grow in the perennial flower garden.

TipGive plants a little breathing room when adding mulch by keeping it about 3 inches from the base of the plant stalks. Doing so helps minimize rot problems.

Use Dill Flowers

Roughly resembling Queen Anne's Lace, the flower of the dill plant is spiny, yellow and, like the leaves and seeds, edible. The flower has a slightly stronger taste than the needle-like leaves. The fresh flowers don't last long once picked, so it's important to preserve them after harvesting if they won't be used right away. Harvest the flowers when they're just starting to open up, leaving a few flowers behind if you want to harvest seeds from them later.

Submerge the cut dill flowers in cold water and agitate gently to remove any dirt.

Spread out paper towels and lay the wet dill flowers on top in a single layer. Lay another sheet of paper towel on top and press lightly to dry.

Cut the flowers from the stem and add to a soup, stew or the bottom of pickle jars. For dips and sauces, chop the flowers before adding them. Dill flowers can be used in place of sprigs of fresh dill weed in recipes; use one to two flowers for each sprig.

Place left over dill flowers into zip-top sandwich bags and put them in the freezer to preserve. When fresh dill is needed, use frozen dill instead.

Preserve Flowers in Epoxy Resin

Preserving flowers with two-part epoxy resin is a somewhat messy, but not difficult, procedure that produces striking results. Choose flowers that have tightly petaled blossoms, such as roses, chrysanthemums, tuberoses, gardenias, asters, carnations, marigolds or tulips, for best results. When you have coated several flowers, use them for a centerpiece display, in vases or as components in craft projects. Work with epoxy resin in a well-ventilated area and wear plastic gloves, as the resin is difficult to remove from skin and can be irritating.

Dry the flowers. You can do this by hanging them upside down with the stems attached to the top of the picture frame with push pins. For quicker results, submerge them in a container of silica gel for a few days.

Place old newspaper or another protective covering on your work surface. Epoxy resin bonds permanently to almost everything, so you need to avoid spills and drips directly on your counter or table.

Measure out exactly equal amounts of the resin and catalyst. Use disposable measuring cups, such as those used to dispense medication, marked in milliliters. Estimate how much of the mixture you will need for one or two flowers, as epoxy resin sets quickly and your work window is correspondingly short.

Pour the pre-measured resin and catalyst into a disposable mixing cup large enough to hold the liquid and a flower blossom. Scrape the sides of the measuring containers to make sure all of the material ends up in the cup. Mix the resin and catalyst thoroughly, then mix it some more. Unequal amounts of catalyst and resin or incomplete mixing will cause the resin not to set.

Dip the flower blossom with the stem attached into the epoxy, and hold it there for a few minutes so the epoxy gets between the petals. Lift the blossom out of the epoxy and transfer it to the picture frame, which is now set upright over newspaper or your other protective covering. Use a pushpin to hang the stem from the top of the frame. If you intend to keep the stem attached to the blossom, use a disposable paintbrush to cover the stem with epoxy.

Wipe away any drips that form as the epoxy sets. You have about five minutes before the epoxy becomes unworkable. Allow the resin to cure overnight.

Cross-Pollinate Flowers

Cross-pollination refers to the pollination of female flowers with the pollen from a male flower. Many situations arise in which the hand-pollination of flowers is beneficial. A gardener may simply wish to make sure that a certain variety remains pure. Gardeners often use cross-pollination to create hybrid flowers, fruits and vegetables that exhibit a desired mix of traits. Cross-pollination can take place in an open garden or in a greenhouse situation with the same results.

Examine the plant to be pollinated. Male flowers will appear on a plant first and in larger numbers than female flowers. The male flower contains a stamen which has pollen. Female flowers have a small knob at the base of the flower which indicates a baby fruit or vegetable. Inside of the female flower petals, the stigma receives the pollen.

Collect pollen from a male flower with a cotton swab. The ideal time to collect and transfer pollen is on the first day the female flower is open. The color of the pollen depends on the type of flower. Collect as much of the pollen as possible on the head of the cotton swab by brushing the cotton swab onto the stamen. The powdery substance that clings to the end of the cotton swab is pollen.

Transfer the pollen from the swab to the female flower, stroking all areas of the stigma. Rub the cotton swab all over the stigma. It is not necessary to measure how much pollen is transferred to the female flower.

Tie close larger flowers, such as squash or zucchini, with a small piece of twine. Smaller flowers can be loosely covered with a plastic bag that is secured with a twist tie. This prevents the transfer of pollen from another source through insect or wind, keeping the resulting pollination pure to the female and the male.

Use a label to identify the hybrid mix if cross pollination is between two different varieties.

Press Flowers in Wax Paper

Turn your favorite flower blooms into preserved keepsakes by pressing them in wax paper. Blooms out of your own garden or flower petals from a bouquet of cut flowers work equally well; the main thing to remember is that flat blooms work best. Both fresh or dried flowers may be sealed in wax paper; experiment with some of each for variety.

Picking the Perfect Blooms
If you've ever kept a vase of cut flowers past their prime, you've probably noticed that some flowers retain color as they dry, while others turn brown or fade quickly. The same holds true when preserving flowers. The flowers that retain color the best are those with relatively thin blooms. Avoid flowers with succulent stems or leaves, as the water content will cause the flowers to turn brown. Daisies, violets and many wildflower varieties with small blooms preserve well, while tiger lilies do not, for example. If collecting flowers outdoors, pick them at their peak and while they are dry -- not after a rain or while they are covered with dew. A few thin leaves or parts of stems may also be included for added beauty.

Drying the Flowers First
While it is not necessary to dry flowers before preserving them between sheets of wax paper, drying them in a homemade flower press flattens them, making them more suitable for projects such as bookmarks or homemade cards. Place flowers on sheets of plain newsprint or white tissue paper, arranging them exactly as you want them to appear when dried. Place several more sheets of paper on top; then place the sandwiched flowers inside or beneath a heavy book. If drying a bunch of flowers, allow at least 1/2 inch worth of book pages from one "flower sandwich" to the next. Place several more heavy books atop the first; then allow the flowers to dry in place for at least a few days before checking on them. It may take a week or two for the flowers to dry out completely.

Wax Paper Pressing
Wax paper provides another means of pressing flowers with weight -- no tissue paper or newsprint needed. Arrange the blooms in the desired fashion on a sheet of wax paper; then place another sheet of wax paper atop it. Set a heavy book atop the wax paper, adding even more weight on top of the book, such as a weightlifting weight or additional books. After a week or so, remove the dried flowers from the wax paper to save in a scrapbook or to use in a crafting project.

Heat-Sealed Flowers
Preserve even fresh blooms between sheets of wax paper with a method that may call to mind an elementary-school project. Place a sheet of craft paper on the work surface or ironing board, followed by a sheet of wax paper. Arrange the fresh blooms atop the wax paper; then place another sheet of wax paper atop the flowers. Cover the top sheet with another sheet of craft paper; then iron the paper with a low-heat setting and no steam, moving the iron around slightly for 15 to 30 seconds. Move the iron away; then gently pull on the top wax-paper sheet to see if it fused into the bottom sheet, after allowing it to cool for a few more seconds. If the wax paper isn't fused together, iron it again. Always place the craft paper atop the wax paper -- and beneath the bottom wax paper sheet -- to protect both the iron and work surface from melted wax.

Plant Cockscomb Flowers

Some cockscomb flowers (Celosia argentea var. cristata) are feathery plumes, some are spikes and some look like wrinkled brains or tangled yarn, but all thrive in well-drained, moist soil in full sun. The four cockscomb groups are Plumosa, Spicata, Cristata and Childsii. Cockscombs usually grow as annual plants, but in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12 they're short-lived perennials. Garden centers and nurseries sell cockscombs in plant cell packs in spring.

Hardening Off
Cockscomb flowers need to adjust outdoor conditions, or harden off, before they're planted in the garden. If you bought your cockscombs from a supplier or grew them yourself from seed indoors, your plants will be too tender to transplant right away. Leaving them outdoors for increasing amounts of time toughens the leaves and stems and reduces transplantation stress. After the final frost date has passed, place the cockscombs outside in a sheltered spot in the morning and bring them indoors at night for one week. Leave them outdoors overnight for the following week, and plant them in your garden in the third week. Plants usually require more water when they go outside.

Planting Out
Warm, cloudy, still days are best for planting cockscomb flowers. Plant tall varieties in locations sheltered from strong winds. If the soil in the planting site is dry and thin, dig 3 inches of garden compost or well-rotted manure into the top 6 inches of soil with a garden fork. Gently ease the cockscombs out of their containers by pushing on the bases or tapping the packs on the ground and sliding the plants out. Don't pull cockscombs out by their stems because this can damage them. Plant the cockscombs at the same level in the ground they were growing in their containers, spaced 10 to 12 inches apart or according to the instructions on the label or seed packet. Water the plants thoroughly. Cockscombs look best planted in large groups.

Caring for Cockscombs
With regular watering and feeding, cockscomb flowers are usually trouble free. Spread a 2-inch layer of compost, leaf mold or another fine organic mulch over the cockscomb bed, avoiding plant stems, to help conserve moisture in the soil. Water cockscombs whenever the soil surface is dry, and feed them with a water-soluble 24-8-16 fertilizer diluted at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water. Apply 1/2 gallon of fertilizer solution to every 5 square feet of garden bed every two weeks, or according to the directions on the product label. Support tall cockscombs with stakes. Push 3-foot bamboo canes into the soil behind the plants, and tie the main stems to the canes with garden twine. You can also use specialized plant supports from your local garden center. Cockscombs rarely suffer from serious pests or diseases.

Buying Cockscombs
Cockscombs with crowded roots often grow and flower poorly. Check the bases of cockscomb packs before you buy, and don't buy plants that have roots growing through the drainage holes. Also avoid plants that are already flowering because this may be due to crowding or other stresses. Buy plants with healthy, completely green leaves, growing in moist potting soil. Buy plants two or three weeks before the final frost date and no earlier, or the plants will become crowded in their packs before it's safe to plant them outside. If you've already bought plants with crowded roots, cut 1/4 inch vertically into the root ball bases when planting them to encourage the plants to form new roots. Sterilize your pruning shears by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol before and after using them.

Make a Cactus Flower

Cacti come in many shapes and sizes and do well in warm, sunny climates. Cacti in their natural habitats will flower seasonally, according to the type of plant. Cacti in the family of Mamillaria, Gymnocalycium, Parodia and Notocactus bloom even when planted indoors. Some cacti take 50 or more years before they mature enough to bloom, so check with a reliable expert before choosing a specific cactus. Cacti must have a dormant season to allow them to bloom. Indoor cacti may receive too little sun, too much warmth and too much water to allow the plant to achieve this dormant state.

Plant the cacti in a medium-size planting pot to allow for several years of growth. Mix equal parts bird gravel, potting soil and leaf mold. Follow the planting directions for your specific type of cactus. Water the mixture thoroughly when transplanting.

Feed the plant and water regularly from March through November, the active period for the plant. Water only until the top ¼ inch of the soil is wet.

Withhold water or fertilizer for the cactus from November to March to allow the cactus to become dormant as it would in its natural environment. Place the plant in a location where the temperature does not rise above 50 degrees F at night but receives at least five hours of daily sunlight.

Water the cactus again when the first blooms appear in the spring. Continue to feed and water regularly until August. Taper off the watering in August to prepare the plant for its next dormant season.